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September began with a quick trip to Quebec City for the Conservative Party convention. En route, I sat next to one of those new airplane windows that, rather than opening and closing with a flimsy shutter, dims and brightens based on some technical magic implanted in the glass. I'd seen these shadowy portals before, but this was the first time my window—all of the cabin windows, in fact—was permanently set to "dark." I approached a flight attendant, who said that it was "so that passengers could sleep" because even one "open" window would "flood the cabin with light." I noticed that it was 2:30 p.m., and that if people wanted to sleep during the day, they should be prepared to face sunlight. Whether she agreed or not, she went away and unlocked the kid lock on my window.I'm not sure why I find this new technology so scary, but I believe it is a natural human reaction to corporate control over our life and technical manipulation of our reality. The airlines want us subdued, preferably somnolent, even if it means limiting our exposure to the natural light outside our window. Well, I don't like it. If Air Canada wants us to sleep, it can provide nice red wine for free in all classes on domestic flights while giving us back control over our windows.Although I spent the majority of my time in Quebec City inside the stuffy convention center, I did manage to do some sightseeing on my final day. Seventy years ago, Norman Levine wrote about the city: "People will come here to see this as something out of a museum, a museum piece, when the rest of the country has been swallowed up into a sameness.
His prophecy is gradually coming true.
People are arriving—the Old Port was packed with American tourists—and the city has escaped the plague of modern "sameness," but the beauty feels like a museum piece.The stone streets remain as attractive as ever, even if the quality of the art galleries has fallen to appeal to cruise ship tastes, but you must seek attentively to find remnants of the city's historic culture. In certain situations, it is hidden in plain sight, such as in street names like Rue de Brébeuf, Rue Sainte-Anne, and Rue Sainte-Ursule, as well as the imposing facade of the Monastère des Ursulines in the old city. Other reminders are more subtle, such as a simple bust of Jean-Paul Lemieux gazing up the curve of Côte de la Montagne at the scene he caught in his two great paintings of Quebec, La Fête-Dieu à Québec and Notre Dame protégeant Québec, painted a decade before Levine's visit. I wonder what he sees now.The media's obvious disappointment with the lack of gaffes and scandal was enough to demonstrate the Conservative convention's success. Even the Liberals' half-hearted attempt to disrupt the festivities seemed more like muscle memory than a deliberate response. Steven Guilbeault arrived to accuse the Conservatives of not believing in science, looking as if he'd offset all the carbon he'd emitted coming in from Beijing by failing to wash. He was followed by Pablo Rodriguez, his shirt unbuttoned halfway to his navel like a lubricious Italian film director entering rehab, who rambled about right-wing Republicans. I almost felt bad for them. They sounded like a band with a single hit that no one wanted to hear anymore. They appeared to recognize it, but they are unfamiliar with any other songs.
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